Grand Canyon Feb 2009 - Clear Creek

Wednesday 2/18:
Stormy weather in southern UT and Grand Canyon South Rim for the previous 10 days or so. Lots of new snow up on South Rim. So Dave and I added a few layers of clothing and some more fleece for our sleeping bags in case it got really cold at night. We left St. George around 3:00 am, and immediately once we climbed above the Hurricane Cliffs on HWY 389 it started to snow heavily, and the roads were a little slick. Around Colorado City, the fog was thick so it slowed us down a little. Finally, near Pipe Springs, AZ the storm clouds disappeared and you could see the quarter moon on the eastern horizon, leading us towards Lake Powell and then down to the South Rim.

We parked my car near the Bright Angel Lodge, put on all our layers, and started on our 5 day trek at around 8:40. The Bright Angel trail was iced packed and also some snow immediately at the top so we put our crampons on, which helped immensely. The starting elevation at the trailhead is about 6800 feet and the first 3 miles were icy and snow packed. This took you winding down switchbacks, through the Kaibab Limestone layer; the Toroweap slopes, the Coconino white cliffs; finally to the top of the Redwall cliffs. At this point we took off our crampons, as the trails were snow-free. We passed only a few day hikers at this point. And the mule train carrying tourist had started from the top about 10 minutes after us, so we glanced back ever so often to see if the mules were gaining on us. Luckily we kept a faster pace so we didn’t have to worry about them overtaking us. But we did take a slight break at the 3 mile mark before descending through the Redwall, and they were getting closer. But once we took off from that break spot, we never heard or saw from them again.

After we got down below the Redwall you get to Indian Garden campground along the Garden Creek. Here we encountered a large group of about 10 older hikers coming up from Phantom Ranch, all taking a break. It seemed like a big congregation spot. The next mile or two took you along the creek with good running water and nice cascading, small falls; a little narrow canyon. The sun was finally starting to pop up above the rim to our east/southeast. So we began taking off our extra layers and feeling the warmth of the northern Arizona sun.

We finally started going down the Tapeats sandstone layer and took a sharp turn in the trail to a overlook of the Pipe Creek canyon, which we were to descend down into it. We were looking down about 1000 or so feet into the drainage, which was into the oldest rock formation (exposed that is) on earth. The Vishnu Rock, some 1.7 billion years old. It was by far the best view we saw up to this point, in my opinion. I told Dave I felt like Frodo Baggins and his pal Sam in The Lord of the Rings – as were approaching the Land of Mordor. It looked just like that.

The trail took us down steep switchbacks to this creek and then leveled off as it took us to the Colorado River, where we took our lunch break. We scouted out Pipe Creek rapids, trying to figure out how we would run it with our rafts if we ever got the chance to run the river in this part of the canyon.

The trail then proceeded along the river for about 1 ½ to 2 miles along the base of the Vishnu Rock right along the river, about 200 feet above the river. It hugged the cliffs, along the narrow trail, with spectacular views up and down the river. But you better pay attention where you were going.

We got to the Silver Bridge around noon, crossed the mighty Colorado River and strolled into Phantom Ranch. It was relatively quiet at this little oasis spot. We passed the Bright Angel Campground, where only a few of the camp spots still were occupied. Then past the ranger stations and residences; then to the ranch itself. We took about an hour break here, buying lemonaide and sitting in the canteena. There was a older gentleman there, little overweight, balding – who we reading a book. He asked where we were going, and he began telling us that he spent weeks upon weeks down here in the canyon, particularly at Phantom Ranch. He liked to stay either in the cabins or the campground. It sounded like he did quit a lot of hiking in his days, which was surprising seeing that he didn’t look like he was fit for the amount of hiking that he said he did. He was a jolly, likable guy. Said he’s been retired for 30 years. After we said our goodbyes and Dave and I started back along our way, we both thought that he looked familiar, and both thought he was probably a movie star or movie producer.

We had about 2 more miles to go on our first day to get to our campspot. We left the Bright Angel trail (which continued 13 more miles and about 6000 feet up to the North rim) just above Phantom Ranch and it climbed up throught the Vishnu Rock and then the Tapeats standstone, climbing about 1800 feet to the relatively level Tonto Bench. At a nice flat spot just off the trail, with great views of the inner river gorge in both directions, we threw our heavy packs down and called it a day! This is where we set up camp, just below Sumner Point and near Sumner Wash.

The bad news for Dave, after he put his tent up, was that he discovered he forgot his light weight sleeping bag. And this was going to be a cold night, with the forecast predicting 25 degrees. But he survived the night.

Perhaps the highlight of this day was as we were making the last 100 foot climb from the Bright Angel Creek to the top of the Clear Creek trail, highup in the sky we heard the familiar screech of a Golden Eagle. It soared above us, what appeared to be just below the sun. The glare of the sun made it hard to see it’s features, but its sound was unmistakable.

Total backpacking miles – apprx. 12 miles. Descent from South Rim to River, 4460 feet; climb from river to Clear Creek Trail on Tonto, apprx 1400 feet.

Day 2:
It was hard getting out of the sleeping bag and out into the cold morning air, the temperature being way below freezing. But it was at the time the sun finally peaked out from above the rim to the southeast of us that slowly but surely we were warm enough to start the day.

After a warm breakfast and breaking down the camp, we were warm enough to get started. We were ready to leave a little after 9:00, being in no hurry. This morning’s trail would take us about 5 miles along the Tonto bench, about 1500 feet above the river. It was relatively level, with just the usual constant ups and downs that took long traverses back towards the buttes to our left in order to avoid the 3 or 4 big washes that blocked our way. We came to a point that had a grand view of the inner river gorge, just before hitting the first overlook of the large Clear Creek drainage. At this point we turned away from the river and up to a good place to drop down into the creek. Dropping down to the creek, we passed our first humans, 2 groups of 2 backpackers, each heading out from the campground in which we were to stay in Clear Creek. They gave us some useful info as far as the hikes we intended to take, where the best Indian ruins were, and they informed us that there was one other group down there still camping.

We made it to camp, with the sun providing more and more warmth as each hour passed. We set up camp just below where 2 other tents were already placed. The spot was right above the clear Clear Creek – with it’s running waters. It was in an open area with Cottonwood Trees (leafless of course). Good views up creek of Francois Matthes Pt (Dave and I hiked out to this point about 6 months earlier); Cape Royal along the Walhalla Plateau; Obi Point; and Ariel Point – all some 5000 feet above us. Down creek we had a fantastic view of Angels Gate butte, a nice pointed monument high above the creek. And plenty of Vishnu Shist Rock containing the creek that would lead to the Colorado River some 5 miles down creek.

After a break and eating lunch, we started down the creek. It was much bushwhacking, crossings of the water, rock hopping, winding and narrow passages inside the great Vishnu Schist. Since we hadn’t much time and it was a long trek, we flew. Our destination was a 15 foot waterfall about 1 mile up from the river. Just above that spot we passed our only humans, 2 guys and a girl who were taking a break in the sun along the water. We spoke briefly with them, and then continued to the water fall. It was a nice spot,with a tough 15 foot climb below the falls. Dave went down, but I selected not to. I could have, but just didn’t see the need to. We enjoyed our view of the waterfall, but it was shady, with a little breeze; so it was a little cold.

We returned up creek to our camp. Along the way we passed the three-some again and spoke longer. The younger guy was real nice, he was employeed by the Grand Canyon Park for a week or so; and in 10 days would go back to working for the Grand Canyon Trust. The other 2 were volunteers. They were there for a week or so doing work taking out invasive Tamarisk trees along the creek. They camped where our current camp was; and they would leave around 8:00 each morning and work all day, with plenty of breaks I hope. Both of our nights down there, these dedicated workers would stroll in just after dark and a long days work. Quite exhausted, they would cook a good smelling dinner and get ready to do it again the next day. I told the leader, that when I retire in a few years my plan was to do at least a couple weeks of similar volunteer work, and probably with the Grand Canyon Trust. I hope I can do that.

That night, it was still cold, but luckily about 5 degrees warmer then that night before. Dave was especially happy about the nights getting a little warmer

Total hiking today – About 7 miles backpacking, just a little elevation gain - perhaps 200 feet. And 8 miles of tough creek hiking. We probably climbed up about 1000-1200 feet from the waterfall back to camp

Highlight: The 15 foot waterfall near the mouth of Clear Creek.

Day 3:
This was our layover day, always one to look forward to. No need to break down the camp and throwing on our backpacks and lug that heavy thing for 3-4 or more hours. After a leisure morning around the camp, we headed up the Clear Creek canyon around 9:00. The Grand Canyon work crew were already gone, their morning commute was probably more enjoyable than the morning commute I left behind in my past life driving to the office in downtown Columbus; with all the traffic in a rush to get to work on time to start another 8 hour day in gloomy wintry central Ohio.

The first mile was up Clear Creek; and at about the confluence of Obi Canyon we climbed up some loose scree to a Anazazi Ruin, a little granary with an ancient corn maize. We continued, but instead of going right up Clear Creek we went straight up Ariel Creek. The further we went, the narrower the canyon became. And the creek was running good. After about 2 hours and perhaps 2 ½ miles, I decided to turn back, as Dave continued on trying to get to Ariel Falls. He never saw any waterfall, and later realized he may have went up the wrong branch of the creek.

On my way back, I just took my time and enjoyed and took in every step along the way. The sun was shining, the water was sparkling, the canyon walls were majestic. I took many breaks along the way, mostly nice flat, red rocks in the middle of the creek or along the banks. The sound of rushing water was soothing. The seasons first butterflies fluttered along the creek, heading down to who knows where, following each other. At one time, you could see some large-housesize boulders that had collapsed from the side walls; probably just falling a few thousand years earlier, quite recent in geological time. It was so nice taking the slow stroll down the creek, very relaxing.

I got back to camp around 1:30 or so. Dave did not overtake me, so for all I knew he was climbing some 2000 foot cliff – knowing him. I took my clothes off and took a quite dip in the pool of cold, clean water under a cascading 3 foot cascade. Didn’t stay in long, but getting out was a jolt of cool air with a little breeze. But it was refreshing. While reading Waldon, by Henry David Thorough, Dave strolled back into camp about 20 or so minutes behind me. He told me he never saw the waterfall; and along the way back he went up the Clear Creek fork for about a mile. He also ran into the volunteer workers taking a lunch break (I heard them on my way back but never saw them). Dave jumped into the pool.

The rest of the afternoon was spent soaking in the sun, laying by the banks of the creek, reading the great transcendalist Thorough. There was 1 lone Manzenita bush along the banks, just across the creek from our camp. There was no other one of these bushes along the entire route of our trail during this trip. It was just blooming; and it was like it’s own giant ecosystem. Bees, bugs, gnats, flies – all congregating and pollenating. Even in this bare, desolate, great desert – you could see life flurrishing.

Total hiking today, apprx 5 miles round trip with about 1200 feet climb.


Day 4:
Woke at the break of day, and got ready to leave our nice camping spot along Clear Creek. We left around 7:30, passing the Grand Canyon volunteer work crew as they were getting ready for their next workday. I mentioned to the young leader that it was Saturday, in case he didn’t know. But much to the dismay of the other 2 volunteers, they were not getting the Saturday off.

We were able to climb the 500 feet up through the loose, steep Dox layer to the rim through the Tapeats sandstone and on to the bench of the Tonto. It was only at the top that Dave mentioned that he had heard many Grand Canyon hikers who actually were too scared to do this steep portion of the hike, and actually turned around due to being scared of exposure to big drop-offs. Knowing that I have a fear of heights, he refused to mention this knowing I would have ‘chickened out’ on this hike. But it really wasn’t too bad, similar to many other precarious spots in the desert southwest that I have encountered.

Once on the more level bench, the sun popped up over the western buttes and points. It shone right over Angels Gate to our east; and we caught a good glimpse of Cape Royal beyond Angels Gate. Below us we saw the serpentine meandering of the Clear Creek drainage, we could follow the course of the creek in which we had travelled just 2 days earlier. It sure seemed like a long way to the river from our vantage point.

Taking our time, we made our way along the trail. Taking in any good viewpoint along the way, we eventually took the 1200 foot descent down to Bright Angel creek. We didn’t see anyone till we got within ½ mile of the creek , and only 3 guys heading up for some good views. Finally, back to civilization – Phantom Ranch. We set up camp at the Bright Angel Campground, which consists of about 20 sites along the creek, just ¼ mile from the river. By this time, Dave had a pesky blister on his little toe, so he needed to put it in the cold creek water, which eased his pain somewhat.

After that, we stopped in for a little rest at the Phantom Ranch Cantena. After drinking a cold beer, we took a nice leisurely stroll up the creek towards Phantom Canyon. There weren’t too many others on the trail, in fact I think we only saw 1 other guy as we headed up the 1-2 miles to the side canyon. In our sandals, we crossed the cold, ankle-deep water to get into Phantom Canyon. There was some good water flowing in from this side canyon, and we headed up about another ¼ mile or so to a very scenic waterfall. It was a 3 step falls, maybe around 50 feet dropoff in total. It was definitely one of the nicest falls in the Canyon (nothing compared to Deer Creek, Thunder River, Slide of Sirius, and a few others – of course). We climbed creek left through a boulder field to bypass the falls and continued up the creek a few more minutes, before returning back to camp. Other than going down to the river, we just hung out the camp for the rest of the day.

Then it was time for Stew Dinner. We were both hungry, and smelly. But hopefully we didn’t offend any of our fellow diners. We snarfed down all the food we could eat. I had 3 helpings of stew, at least 3 cornbreads, and a chocolate cake; not counting 2 beers. Dave wasn’t that far behind that. To my left was a father and son from southern California, and across from them were an odd couple. The older husband kept pestering the poor kid, I don’t know how many times this guy asked the kid if he ever hiked before; he then proceeded on telling the kid about all his hiking experience, his sightings of jaguars, and all of his other exploits. But we also sat with 2 couples from New Orleans who travelled often to Grand Canyon and Zion, etc… We had a great conversation with them, both of the spectacular spots out west; as well as the excitement of New Orleans – perhaps one of the great party cities of the world. It seemed everywhere these 4 adventurers went in the desert southwest they encountered flash flood.

Quite full from a great meal (and bloated) we hit the campsite for our last night. Even with all the other campers, it was quite quiet in camp. In part thanks to the sound of the rushing creek drowning out all other noise. It was still clear, but for some reason it seemed a little hazy so that the stars weren’t as brilliant as the other 3 nights in Clear Creek. Perhaps it was the famed Phantom haze hovering over the campground.

Total hiking for the day. 9.1 miles backpacking. Apprx 4 or so more mile strolling up and down the creek.
Highlight – the dinner and beer; but not as much of a highlight as the Phantom Creek falls.


Day 5 – last day:
Woke up early and left camp for our long trek up to the rim – way before the sun would pop up. It was still dark, and I had my head lamp on. As we approached the foot bridge over the creek, I saw 4 little lights on the ground about 10 yards in front me running right at me; it scared the heck out of me, if nothing else waking me up. I saw 2 little Ringtail cats run right to my feet then veer off the trail into the dark.

From that spot, we travelled across the Black Bridge over the river and onto the South Kaibab trail. Up and up and we went, on top of the thick Vishnu Schist, through the Tapeats Sandstone and onto the Tonto level.
Once we left the camp, it had clouded up and it appeared that a storm from the west was heading our way. The clouds were actually welcome, for one it’s nice to not have a sun staring you in the face as you make the 4400 feet climb from the river. Plus the clouds and the sunrise gave a interesting color all over the canyon, as well as more pronounced shadows.

After a long traverse, not too steep, along the Bright Angle Shale and then a little more steep up the Muav level, we rounded a bend towards the steep swithchbacks of the Redwall. Our first sign of human travel passed us as we approached the base of the Redwall cliffs; a pack of mules heading down with supplies for Phantom Ranch. All through the Redwall, still no other hikers. It was finally at the top of the Redwall as we were at the beginning of the Supai traverse, where the trail became much less stepp – that we came upon the first hiker of the day, a real nice guy with an Australian accent.

And little by little we made our way up the trail, which became muddy throughout the climb up the Supai and then the Hermit Shale. The last 800 feet up was icy and windy, but we made it up with lots of energy to spare.

Total Miles today was 9.1 miles and an climb straight up of 4860 feet.
Highlight, the views and the morning colors from the approaching storm.