Subway Day Hike. Summer of 1999. I was asked to join a group to join them on a one day classic hike down through the Subway in the western part of Zion. There were about 10 people in this group, and they were mostly made up of hiking guides from the nearby Red Mountain Spa. The two leaders were quite experienced and gung-ho hikers of this hike, and they were the types who ran from rim to rim to rim in the Grand Canyon in one day, so they were in great shape - as were most of the others in the group. There was one young lady new to southern Utah who made the trip, we’ll call her Mary (only because I forget her name, not to hide her identity for any reason). One of the leaders, the woman of the 2, we’ll call Teri. There was one guest from the spa that all the hiking guides invited (not many of the guests would be in good enough shape to do this hike), a nice guy from New York City. Mary was in great shape, in general, but not in desert hiking and canyon shape since she was so new to the high desert.
From the Upper Subway Hiking trailhead, the hike starts off innocently enough. The first mile is along flat terrain in the NorthGate Peak area (my favorite spot for snowshoeing and Cross county skiing in the winter – total solitude and wintry views). At the junction of Northgate trail and Subway trail, we veered left and started our steep descent to the top of the Left Fork drainage. It was about a mile over alternating slick rock and then through the Ponderosa Pines. This part could be a possible route-finding problem, but not for a seasoned desert hiker. Finally, after going over a slick-rock saddle that resembled the Wave Area in Paria Canyon area, you had to look for a distinct Pine tree at the top of the rim overlooking the creek leading into the Left Fork. Finding that spot, you then climbed down a steep and loose area about 100 feet to the bottom of the creek. This is where you might as well get your feet wet, cause for the next couple of miles you had no choice; and for the next 6 or so miles it was more convenient to walk in the water then attempting to avoid it.
This is where the adventure began. This section from the start of the creek portion of the hike to the bottom area called the Subway is no more than 2 ½ miles. But it can take a good 3 or more hours for some group of hikers. We were unfortunate in that the night before, not too far from here in the higher elevations, they received approximately 3 inches of rain – so that the water level was higher than our leaders have ever experienced (and they have done around 12 of these, or so they claimed). At first it was easy going, but soon we ran into the expected obstacles.
The first trouble spot in this deep canyon, with tight narrow canyons that prevented the sun from sneaking through to warm us, was a deep pool of cold water that was about 40 or 50 feet long. One by one we took the plunge. I got my backpack wet, so I was hoping my water proof containers kept my food dry. But after struggling I finally made to a spot I could stand. The others made it as well. There were 2 or 3 places up a head where we had to rappel, my first real experience in this. I didn’t like it, but there was no other choice. By this time, since it was getting close to high noon, we were hoping to find a sunny spot. We were still wet and a few of us were starting to shiver. In fact one of our leaders, Teri, was bordering on hyperthermia. And we had a little ways to go.
Finally we made it to the upper part of The Subway. And I was nervous to get this over with. By this time my legs were tired and slightly cramping up. As Bill held onto the rope, one by one the others rappelled down this slope. It was about 30 feet down a slope of about 75% angle, but the last 10 feet there was no wall, it was an overhang. This was probably the part that worried me. There have been some folks who I’ve heard just jump this 40 foot drop off and land for the water, and I was contemplating that, since my leg was really cramping up at this point. But this is extremely dangerous and many have broken legs or ankles in doing this. So I was the last one down, and even with a cramped leg it wasn’t that bad, although the last 10 feet I struggled a little.
We were all down, and Teri was shivering and cold. So it was a perfect time to take a long lunch break and we found a ledge up above the creek with a good view of upper falls that we just rappelled down. It’s so nice to get the obstacles out of the way, knowing the worst was over. And for the next mile or so the most unique and beautiful area on Zion was awaiting us. After resting up and getting some much needed fuel in our bodies, as well as warming up, we continued. Teri was warmed up enough that we weren’t worried anymore about her shivering.
From this point on we traversed the Subway section. It was very narrow, very cool and in the shadows. We walking in the creek, slowly due to slippery wet cascading water, one turn after another. There were a number of waterfalls or cascades along this section. Finally, we had 3 miles or so to go, it turned more into a regular hike, although with numerous and continuous creek crossings. There was a huge boulder with dinosaur tracks etched in them just off the trail to the right about 3 miles from the ending trailhead.
At this time, Mary was really slowing down. It was probably at the 8th hour mark of the hike and only about 1 to 2 miles away. But the last ½ mile was a steep 300 or so foot climb up a steep hillside. We all took a much needed break below an area where there was a nice little 5 foot slide, nice and smooth. We all took turns sliding down this into the big pool of cool, clear water. It was time to head back. Many of the hikers just took off to the top to the awaiting cars, as if it was a race to see who’d make it back first. I sort of stayed back along with Bill, the leader of the hike . We were staying with Mary, since she was really lagging behind. She had met her match – the canyon country of Zion Nt’l Park.
Lots of hikers miss the spot where you have to climb up to the top, and it’s easy to do. Some get nervous and take a climb out well before they should and get hopelessly lost; some pass it and continue downstream – they could hit the confluence of the Right Fork of North Creek in about 2 miles if they go that far. There have been numerous Search and Rescue Missions late in the evening when wayward hikers are nowhere to be seen in the trailhead parking lot, wandering around somewhere down below in the canyon – along with the wildcats and snakes. A friend of mine, who was actually on this hike today, told me she once was coming out of this hike and another group was missing some of their buddies. She spent a couple of hours while it was getting dark helping out, trying to find the lost hikers. It’s not an easy hike, it can wear you down and take all day. The first time I saw this hike was my first visit out to Zion, I met my brother and his family in the town of Virgin and we drove up and just took the climb down from the ending trailhead. When we were told the name of the hike was ‘The Subway’ we were both thinking there was a Subway Sub shop at the bottom. That shows you how naïve we were at the beginning of our wild west days.
Bill, Mary and I finally made it to the top. We were done, and it felt great to sit back with the others, at a viewpoint right above the canyon and high above The Left Fork below. The night before, my daughter Andrea had smuggled 2 big brownies from a local buffet Diner and I had packed it, anticipating to eat this at the end of the hike. There is nothing better than a treat like this after a 10 hour all day hike. As I unwrapped it out my bag, I discovered that when I got my day pack wet in the pool way back before lunchtime, some 6 hours earlier, it had drenched the brownies. It wasn’t a good idea to eat a soggy, creek-soaked brownie – I could maybe get some germs from the creek. I was crushed, but at the same time I was feeling great. A great hike was a success. By the way, I never saw Mary, the lagging hiker, the rest of my life. She probably moved right back to Philadelphia the minute she got back to her home from this grueling excursion in the wild canyon country of Zion.
ADDED 11/16/07
Dave and I searched for a way down about halfway through the Subway and up on the other side in order to reach the base and perhaps top of South Guardian peak, which stands tall as a sentinal atop of the southern rim of the Left Fork of the North Creek (Subway). See photo above of South Guardian. This has been a goal of Dave's for a few years. I've been down pretty close to the rim of the subway where we had to find, but it sure looked quite impossible to 1) get down into the creek from the high cliffs from the north rim area and 2) then be able to climb out of the creek to the high cliffs across on the other side. There simply didn't seem to be a way, either sides. And there really wasn't any documentation or info on this hike. Dave has always found by Googling any info he needed on most obsure hikes. But not this one, and in fact he had never really been too far down as we had to go. I had been there a few times before but never closer to than perhaps 100 feet above the creek. And I had told Dave that I really didn't see a good route. But we went, and came to about 50 feet above the creek, with no way down. We did note, as an apparant consolation, to our right and below us an amazing colorful display of red leafs coming from a grove of oak or maple trees. Brilliant dark red colors. But we also noticed that this must be the only way down - a very steep but a good angle never the less. We slid down, grabbing a hold of all the trees down the steep slope. But it was much easier than I ever thought and we made it to the Subway creek, about right in the middle of where the obstacles of the hike we're to our left and the last few dropoffs of the Subway was to our right.
We crossed the creek and looked for the way up, and we thought we found it going up a steep gulley - with one problem, a very difficult climb up a 6-8 foot straigh up climb. I didn't think I was going to try it but with Dave's urging I made it up with a little hand from Dave. From there on out it wasn't anything too scary, just extremely steep, loose, and hard route-finding. From there is was merely trying to find a wash that led us to where were heading, but it was pretty brushy, and steeper and steeper. Dave continued on without me, and made it to just below the base of the South Guardian peak. We didn't have time this day, so we headed back the way we came and got back to the car after the sun had already set and the temperature had dropped down to be pretty cold. That night driving down the Kolob Resovoir road, the most brilliant sunset imaginable guided us back to civilization.
From the Upper Subway Hiking trailhead, the hike starts off innocently enough. The first mile is along flat terrain in the NorthGate Peak area (my favorite spot for snowshoeing and Cross county skiing in the winter – total solitude and wintry views). At the junction of Northgate trail and Subway trail, we veered left and started our steep descent to the top of the Left Fork drainage. It was about a mile over alternating slick rock and then through the Ponderosa Pines. This part could be a possible route-finding problem, but not for a seasoned desert hiker. Finally, after going over a slick-rock saddle that resembled the Wave Area in Paria Canyon area, you had to look for a distinct Pine tree at the top of the rim overlooking the creek leading into the Left Fork. Finding that spot, you then climbed down a steep and loose area about 100 feet to the bottom of the creek. This is where you might as well get your feet wet, cause for the next couple of miles you had no choice; and for the next 6 or so miles it was more convenient to walk in the water then attempting to avoid it.
This is where the adventure began. This section from the start of the creek portion of the hike to the bottom area called the Subway is no more than 2 ½ miles. But it can take a good 3 or more hours for some group of hikers. We were unfortunate in that the night before, not too far from here in the higher elevations, they received approximately 3 inches of rain – so that the water level was higher than our leaders have ever experienced (and they have done around 12 of these, or so they claimed). At first it was easy going, but soon we ran into the expected obstacles.
The first trouble spot in this deep canyon, with tight narrow canyons that prevented the sun from sneaking through to warm us, was a deep pool of cold water that was about 40 or 50 feet long. One by one we took the plunge. I got my backpack wet, so I was hoping my water proof containers kept my food dry. But after struggling I finally made to a spot I could stand. The others made it as well. There were 2 or 3 places up a head where we had to rappel, my first real experience in this. I didn’t like it, but there was no other choice. By this time, since it was getting close to high noon, we were hoping to find a sunny spot. We were still wet and a few of us were starting to shiver. In fact one of our leaders, Teri, was bordering on hyperthermia. And we had a little ways to go.
Finally we made it to the upper part of The Subway. And I was nervous to get this over with. By this time my legs were tired and slightly cramping up. As Bill held onto the rope, one by one the others rappelled down this slope. It was about 30 feet down a slope of about 75% angle, but the last 10 feet there was no wall, it was an overhang. This was probably the part that worried me. There have been some folks who I’ve heard just jump this 40 foot drop off and land for the water, and I was contemplating that, since my leg was really cramping up at this point. But this is extremely dangerous and many have broken legs or ankles in doing this. So I was the last one down, and even with a cramped leg it wasn’t that bad, although the last 10 feet I struggled a little.
We were all down, and Teri was shivering and cold. So it was a perfect time to take a long lunch break and we found a ledge up above the creek with a good view of upper falls that we just rappelled down. It’s so nice to get the obstacles out of the way, knowing the worst was over. And for the next mile or so the most unique and beautiful area on Zion was awaiting us. After resting up and getting some much needed fuel in our bodies, as well as warming up, we continued. Teri was warmed up enough that we weren’t worried anymore about her shivering.
From this point on we traversed the Subway section. It was very narrow, very cool and in the shadows. We walking in the creek, slowly due to slippery wet cascading water, one turn after another. There were a number of waterfalls or cascades along this section. Finally, we had 3 miles or so to go, it turned more into a regular hike, although with numerous and continuous creek crossings. There was a huge boulder with dinosaur tracks etched in them just off the trail to the right about 3 miles from the ending trailhead.
At this time, Mary was really slowing down. It was probably at the 8th hour mark of the hike and only about 1 to 2 miles away. But the last ½ mile was a steep 300 or so foot climb up a steep hillside. We all took a much needed break below an area where there was a nice little 5 foot slide, nice and smooth. We all took turns sliding down this into the big pool of cool, clear water. It was time to head back. Many of the hikers just took off to the top to the awaiting cars, as if it was a race to see who’d make it back first. I sort of stayed back along with Bill, the leader of the hike . We were staying with Mary, since she was really lagging behind. She had met her match – the canyon country of Zion Nt’l Park.
Lots of hikers miss the spot where you have to climb up to the top, and it’s easy to do. Some get nervous and take a climb out well before they should and get hopelessly lost; some pass it and continue downstream – they could hit the confluence of the Right Fork of North Creek in about 2 miles if they go that far. There have been numerous Search and Rescue Missions late in the evening when wayward hikers are nowhere to be seen in the trailhead parking lot, wandering around somewhere down below in the canyon – along with the wildcats and snakes. A friend of mine, who was actually on this hike today, told me she once was coming out of this hike and another group was missing some of their buddies. She spent a couple of hours while it was getting dark helping out, trying to find the lost hikers. It’s not an easy hike, it can wear you down and take all day. The first time I saw this hike was my first visit out to Zion, I met my brother and his family in the town of Virgin and we drove up and just took the climb down from the ending trailhead. When we were told the name of the hike was ‘The Subway’ we were both thinking there was a Subway Sub shop at the bottom. That shows you how naïve we were at the beginning of our wild west days.
Bill, Mary and I finally made it to the top. We were done, and it felt great to sit back with the others, at a viewpoint right above the canyon and high above The Left Fork below. The night before, my daughter Andrea had smuggled 2 big brownies from a local buffet Diner and I had packed it, anticipating to eat this at the end of the hike. There is nothing better than a treat like this after a 10 hour all day hike. As I unwrapped it out my bag, I discovered that when I got my day pack wet in the pool way back before lunchtime, some 6 hours earlier, it had drenched the brownies. It wasn’t a good idea to eat a soggy, creek-soaked brownie – I could maybe get some germs from the creek. I was crushed, but at the same time I was feeling great. A great hike was a success. By the way, I never saw Mary, the lagging hiker, the rest of my life. She probably moved right back to Philadelphia the minute she got back to her home from this grueling excursion in the wild canyon country of Zion.
ADDED 11/16/07
Dave and I searched for a way down about halfway through the Subway and up on the other side in order to reach the base and perhaps top of South Guardian peak, which stands tall as a sentinal atop of the southern rim of the Left Fork of the North Creek (Subway). See photo above of South Guardian. This has been a goal of Dave's for a few years. I've been down pretty close to the rim of the subway where we had to find, but it sure looked quite impossible to 1) get down into the creek from the high cliffs from the north rim area and 2) then be able to climb out of the creek to the high cliffs across on the other side. There simply didn't seem to be a way, either sides. And there really wasn't any documentation or info on this hike. Dave has always found by Googling any info he needed on most obsure hikes. But not this one, and in fact he had never really been too far down as we had to go. I had been there a few times before but never closer to than perhaps 100 feet above the creek. And I had told Dave that I really didn't see a good route. But we went, and came to about 50 feet above the creek, with no way down. We did note, as an apparant consolation, to our right and below us an amazing colorful display of red leafs coming from a grove of oak or maple trees. Brilliant dark red colors. But we also noticed that this must be the only way down - a very steep but a good angle never the less. We slid down, grabbing a hold of all the trees down the steep slope. But it was much easier than I ever thought and we made it to the Subway creek, about right in the middle of where the obstacles of the hike we're to our left and the last few dropoffs of the Subway was to our right.
We crossed the creek and looked for the way up, and we thought we found it going up a steep gulley - with one problem, a very difficult climb up a 6-8 foot straigh up climb. I didn't think I was going to try it but with Dave's urging I made it up with a little hand from Dave. From there on out it wasn't anything too scary, just extremely steep, loose, and hard route-finding. From there is was merely trying to find a wash that led us to where were heading, but it was pretty brushy, and steeper and steeper. Dave continued on without me, and made it to just below the base of the South Guardian peak. We didn't have time this day, so we headed back the way we came and got back to the car after the sun had already set and the temperature had dropped down to be pretty cold. That night driving down the Kolob Resovoir road, the most brilliant sunset imaginable guided us back to civilization.
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