) Thunder River/Deer Creek 2005
Dave and I did this 3 day backpack, taking the same trail as Chris and I 5 years earlier. We went all the way down to the Tapeats Creek campsite in the one day, which is about 5500 feet down and 12 miles. I was quite sore when we finally got to the campsite, with a nice stop at Thunder River just above. My feet and ankles were bruised and aching, I took some Pain Candy (better known as Motrin); as we took a nice long break along the scenic creek, with waterfalls in front of us.
We weren’t sore and tired enough to prevent us from taking off down Tapeats in the later part of the afternoon. We went down creek about 2 miles, and found a nice secluded, hidden part of the trail where we could jump in to the creek and lay out in the hot afternoon sun. We were refreshed from the cleansing creek, getting all the grime and sweat off of us.
Back at the campsite, we had a little treat that I brought down. I had a little bit of whisky that I brought and two Sierra Mists that I had frozen before our hike and at this time were the perfect composition of slushy ice and Mist – a perfect 7 and 7 drink for both of us. The campsite was sitting right along the creek, and about 3 other campsites. But it was quite quiet.
The middle day of the trip was to be a dayhike without our heavy packs since we were staying put at the Tapeats campsite the 2nd night as well. We had 3 choices:
1) head up Tapeats as far as we could. This would be the most technical and difficult option. Lots of obstacles to face as we proceeded further and further up into the Tapeats Ampitheatre.
2) Head down Tapeats Creek to the Colorado River, about 2-3 miles downriver
3) Head back up to Surprise Valley all the way to Deer Creek. This was by far the most exhausting option
We chose option 3, just barely winning over going down to the Colorado River. So much for this day off of healing and resting, this would end up being a quite grueling day hike. But it was worth it. First you have to climb about 1500-1800 feet out via Thunder River and back up to Surprise Valley. Then Surprise Valley is a long 3-4 miles of hiking in exposed sun. Luckily it’s relatively level. Finally you start climbing down to Deer Creek, and this ends up being another 1500 feet descent, which was fine now since it sure beats climbing up, but we knew we’d have to make this climb coming back up. More then halfway down you get to a nice oasis area where Deer Springs comes out of a recessed alcove area. This is almost as magnificent as Thunder River, but not as big. It’s a great rest area after being almost 2 hours in the sun. From there the trail goes through a thick brushy area before finally hitting the small Deer Creek, which is very shady with lots of vegetation.
This is the way the terrain is for about a mile until you get to the highlight of the Deer Creek area. Just above the Colorado River the creek narrows to a classic Grand Canyon slot canyon. The walls on each side of the creek are only a few feet apart and they curve in perfect unison and are 40-50 feet high. You can walk along the ledge right above the slot canyon and it gets quick narrow along the ledge. Due to my fear of heights, I had to stop going any further, even though I tried. I just was terrified; although Dave didn’t have any trouble going. He ended up going to the actual Deer Creek Falls, a 80 foot drop-off right before you get to the River. I kick myself for not proceeding any further, but that’s the way it was. I did go back to the head of this slot canyon section and just enjoyed the waterfall and cascading water while lying in the sun; getting wet and laying down enjoying the wonderful sights. Dave made it back and told what a great sight I missed because of my cowardness. This is still one my biggest regrets in all of my backcountry hiking experience.
After taking a nice long break in Deer Creek narrows, we headed back the way we came, a long 6 or so more miles with a 1500 foot climb and 1500 foot drop-off. The climb out of Deer Creek was tough, but so was the tough, long 3 miles across Surprise Valley, just being out in the hot sun all day. We did have a good supply of Deer Creek Spring water to keep us going; plus knowing that Thunder River was up ahead. So much for our restful off-day.
The next morning we packed up our gear, getting started a good 1 hour before the sun came up. I used my little flashlight and Dave had his headlamp. The going wasn’t too tough, even though we were climbing up the switchbacks that took us up from Tapeats Creek to Surprise Valley. This was a good thing to do, getting up before the sun. It was actually a little chilly going up, so much so that we didn’t even need a pit stop for water and rest at Thunder River, which is a must-do for most people. By the time we were half-way through the valley the sun was starting to come up, but was blocked by the cliffs to the east. So when we climbed up the 1500 feet to the Esplanade level we were still in the shade, which also helped out.
By the time we made it the Esplanade, it was actually getting cloudy and windier, and the smell rain (if not snow higher up, in the air) was in the air. Three days earlier coming down I had cached a water bottle right up along this rim where we just came onto. After searching and searching, I couldn’t find it, so I ended up just ditching it. The rest of the way up was the usual slow march with heavy packs, other than it was actually cold at this time, which sure beats the intense heat that you usually face. We did see a few backpackers going down and it sounded from them that a storm was moving in later that day, and you could feel the change in the air. But the clouds sure made the last climb of 2000 feet easier, if you call this easier. But we made it in record time, around 11:00 in the morning with a whole day left to enjoy ourselves.
Dave and I did this 3 day backpack, taking the same trail as Chris and I 5 years earlier. We went all the way down to the Tapeats Creek campsite in the one day, which is about 5500 feet down and 12 miles. I was quite sore when we finally got to the campsite, with a nice stop at Thunder River just above. My feet and ankles were bruised and aching, I took some Pain Candy (better known as Motrin); as we took a nice long break along the scenic creek, with waterfalls in front of us.
We weren’t sore and tired enough to prevent us from taking off down Tapeats in the later part of the afternoon. We went down creek about 2 miles, and found a nice secluded, hidden part of the trail where we could jump in to the creek and lay out in the hot afternoon sun. We were refreshed from the cleansing creek, getting all the grime and sweat off of us.
Back at the campsite, we had a little treat that I brought down. I had a little bit of whisky that I brought and two Sierra Mists that I had frozen before our hike and at this time were the perfect composition of slushy ice and Mist – a perfect 7 and 7 drink for both of us. The campsite was sitting right along the creek, and about 3 other campsites. But it was quite quiet.
The middle day of the trip was to be a dayhike without our heavy packs since we were staying put at the Tapeats campsite the 2nd night as well. We had 3 choices:
1) head up Tapeats as far as we could. This would be the most technical and difficult option. Lots of obstacles to face as we proceeded further and further up into the Tapeats Ampitheatre.
2) Head down Tapeats Creek to the Colorado River, about 2-3 miles downriver
3) Head back up to Surprise Valley all the way to Deer Creek. This was by far the most exhausting option
We chose option 3, just barely winning over going down to the Colorado River. So much for this day off of healing and resting, this would end up being a quite grueling day hike. But it was worth it. First you have to climb about 1500-1800 feet out via Thunder River and back up to Surprise Valley. Then Surprise Valley is a long 3-4 miles of hiking in exposed sun. Luckily it’s relatively level. Finally you start climbing down to Deer Creek, and this ends up being another 1500 feet descent, which was fine now since it sure beats climbing up, but we knew we’d have to make this climb coming back up. More then halfway down you get to a nice oasis area where Deer Springs comes out of a recessed alcove area. This is almost as magnificent as Thunder River, but not as big. It’s a great rest area after being almost 2 hours in the sun. From there the trail goes through a thick brushy area before finally hitting the small Deer Creek, which is very shady with lots of vegetation.
This is the way the terrain is for about a mile until you get to the highlight of the Deer Creek area. Just above the Colorado River the creek narrows to a classic Grand Canyon slot canyon. The walls on each side of the creek are only a few feet apart and they curve in perfect unison and are 40-50 feet high. You can walk along the ledge right above the slot canyon and it gets quick narrow along the ledge. Due to my fear of heights, I had to stop going any further, even though I tried. I just was terrified; although Dave didn’t have any trouble going. He ended up going to the actual Deer Creek Falls, a 80 foot drop-off right before you get to the River. I kick myself for not proceeding any further, but that’s the way it was. I did go back to the head of this slot canyon section and just enjoyed the waterfall and cascading water while lying in the sun; getting wet and laying down enjoying the wonderful sights. Dave made it back and told what a great sight I missed because of my cowardness. This is still one my biggest regrets in all of my backcountry hiking experience.
After taking a nice long break in Deer Creek narrows, we headed back the way we came, a long 6 or so more miles with a 1500 foot climb and 1500 foot drop-off. The climb out of Deer Creek was tough, but so was the tough, long 3 miles across Surprise Valley, just being out in the hot sun all day. We did have a good supply of Deer Creek Spring water to keep us going; plus knowing that Thunder River was up ahead. So much for our restful off-day.
The next morning we packed up our gear, getting started a good 1 hour before the sun came up. I used my little flashlight and Dave had his headlamp. The going wasn’t too tough, even though we were climbing up the switchbacks that took us up from Tapeats Creek to Surprise Valley. This was a good thing to do, getting up before the sun. It was actually a little chilly going up, so much so that we didn’t even need a pit stop for water and rest at Thunder River, which is a must-do for most people. By the time we were half-way through the valley the sun was starting to come up, but was blocked by the cliffs to the east. So when we climbed up the 1500 feet to the Esplanade level we were still in the shade, which also helped out.
By the time we made it the Esplanade, it was actually getting cloudy and windier, and the smell rain (if not snow higher up, in the air) was in the air. Three days earlier coming down I had cached a water bottle right up along this rim where we just came onto. After searching and searching, I couldn’t find it, so I ended up just ditching it. The rest of the way up was the usual slow march with heavy packs, other than it was actually cold at this time, which sure beats the intense heat that you usually face. We did see a few backpackers going down and it sounded from them that a storm was moving in later that day, and you could feel the change in the air. But the clouds sure made the last climb of 2000 feet easier, if you call this easier. But we made it in record time, around 11:00 in the morning with a whole day left to enjoy ourselves.
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